This week on The Go-To Food Podcast, we sit down with David Ellis—restaurant critic and Going Out editor at The London Standard, and the man who inherited Fay Maschler’s legendary column.

Recorded at The Orange in Pimlico (a place David knows but has never reviewed), this episode is a no-holds-barred look at the realities of restaurant criticism—from the dishes that blew his mind to the meals that nearly broke him.

David talks about the awkwardness of replacing Jimmy Famurewa, why the pressure to be first in print still matters, breaks down what makes a five-star review, reveals why overhyped sandwich shops drive him mad (except Max’s), and explains why he just can’t recommend the River Cafe even though everyone else says it’s iconic.

We dive into the state of London’s dining scene today, and why it's become safer, more cautious, and—frankly—more boring. As he sees it, too many places are playing to formulas, not passion. There’s a creeping sameness to rotisserie chicken joints and bistros built to emulate proven hits like Josephine or Bouchon Racine. His feelings are just as strong when it comes to the nostalgia-fuelled revival of traditional pie and mash shops. Despite their place in London’s history, he found the food itself diabolical, even after following the exact rituals—ordering properly, adding the chili vinegar—he still left wondering why these places deserve saving at all.

He also shares his favorite meals of all time, from Pierre Koffmann’s legendary pig’s trotter to the surprise brilliance of sweetbreads at The Ritz, and a melon-sorbet combo that rewired his brain. Plus: the ice cream in St Ives, the secret market spots in Portugal, and the weekend food escapes he always dreams about.

Smart, sharp, and unsparingly honest, this is David Ellis exactly as you want him—funny, thoughtful, and completely unfiltered.

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This week we sit down with the inimitable Lee and Kate Tiernan, the creative force behind F.K.A. Black Axe Mangal—the boundary-pushing, heavy metal, nose-to-tail hotspot that changed London dining and earned cult status around the world.

They talk us through the BAM origin story, from their formative years at St. John to opening one of the most chaotic and exciting restaurants in London. We hear about the pop-ups that reignited Lee’s love for cooking, but not before the longest queue in Copenhagen nearly finished him.

There’s also tales of wild nights with Matty Matheson, getting stoned with Action Bronson, Cooking for Anthony Bourdain, bone marrow tributes to Fergus Henderson, banning the rudest customer they ever had (who happens to be a celebrity) and Lee’s unapologetic love for Domino’s. Plus: blue cheese handkerchiefs at El Bulli, bartering meals for socket repairs, and why sometimes the best thing you can eat is your mum’s ratatouille after being deported from Brazil.

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Please leave us a great rating and a comment and share it with your friends - it really helps us grow as a show.If you're in the industry and are looking for the greatest POS system in the world than look no further as Blinq are tearing up the rulebook—no long-term contracts, no hidden fees, and no per-device charges.

Just £49 a month for unlimited devices and 24/7 UK-based support that’s always there, in person when you need it.Built for hospitality, by hospitality, blinq is the fastest, easiest POS system on the market—so intuitive, anyone can use it. And while others take weeks to get you up and running, with blinq, you’re live in just 2 hours.Join the hospitality revolution today & use the code GOTOBLINQ to get your first month free - https://blinqme.com/

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Today we're delighted to bring you another 'Legends Roundtable Restaurateur Special' where we're joined by 3 of the greatest restaurateur's in the country in Lady Ruth Rogers (River Cafe), Jeremy King OBE (Arlington, The Park & Simpsons) & Francois O'Neill (Maison/Cafe Francois) to unleash their wisdom and share their secrets to success, for an honest, warm, and often hilarious conversation about what it takes to survive and evolve in the restaurant industry.

Over the course of this round table, our guests reflect on the seismic shifts they've witnessed in the restaurant industry; from changing customer habits to the new responsibilities of creating inclusive and sustainable workplaces. Jeremy shares why humour and generosity matter more than rules, the great lesson he learnt from Nick Jones, why Corporates are ruining restaurants, the mistake of treating your customers as profit, why so many restaurants are stupidly chasing cheaper produce, why you should never get rid of a waiter, how a £2.25 bowl of soup can be as valuable as a second bottle of champagne, and his firm stance against dynamic pricing creep.

Ruthie opens up about building trust and fairness in the kitchen, the importance of rigour behind the joy, and how the River Café evolved to embrace a diverse, respectful, modern workplace, plus her great life lessons learnt over the years and flirts with a possible new River Cafe this year? Francois talks about learning to lead through energy and example, the quiet wins of helping young staff grow, and why patience and perseverance matter more than ever when building something lasting.

It’s a heartfelt look at a profession that can be punishing, beautiful, addictive, and transformative - often all at once. Whether you’re running service tonight or dreaming up your first menu, this one’s a must-listen.

Wit, wisdom, and perspective from three of hospitality’s most respected voices.

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Please leave us a great rating and a comment and share it with your friends - it really helps us grow as a show.

If you're in the industry and are looking for the greatest POS system in the world than look no further as Blinq are tearing up the rulebook—no long-term contracts, no hidden fees, and no per-device charges. Just £49 a month for unlimited devices and 24/7 UK-based support that’s always there, in person when you need it.

Built for hospitality, by hospitality, blinq is the fastest, easiest POS system on the market—so intuitive, anyone can use it. And while others take weeks to get you up and running, with blinq, you’re live in just 2 hours.

Join the hospitality revolution today & use the code GOTOBLINQ to get your first month free - https://blinqme.com/

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.